Leaving Sicily, we first flew to Munich and then onto Marseille.
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| Aerial view of Marseilles. Marseille, the gateway to Provence, is located on France's south coast and is the second largest city in France, after Paris. |
We quickly rented a car at the airport and were soon on A7 Autoroute heading inland to Cavaillon and on further to Ménerbes. We were to be joining Ian and Judy and an extended community of new friends ... not one a Peter Mayle wannabe, or so Gus hoped.
The drive took maybe 1½ hours. We turned left off a country road, passed through an iron gate, drove up the sand and gravel driveway, and parked. We had arrived: Bucolic Provence. Our home for the week ...
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| Entrance gate and driveway |
It was early evening and we were the last to arrive. During the day, our housemates for the next week arrived and had each settled in.
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| Our room, Room Moulin Rouge (photo courtesy of VRBO) |
Our housemates ...
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| Ben & his wife, Jamie On their tandem bicycle brought from home |
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| Ian Garçon d'anniversaire |
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| Shelley & Judy Sisters in French stripes |
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| Sheila Ian's younger sister |
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| Judy & Tina Friends for life |
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| Charlie with his panama hat & wife, Roxy "Avec ma femme a Bonneiux"
(photo courtesy of Charlie)
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Most all of our housemates had arrived in Europe before arriving in Ménerbes. Ian, Judy, Shelia, and Tina first spent 6 days ("Three Perfect Days" times 2) together in Barcelona enjoying tapas (Cal'Fusta, Mirilla, and El Callejon) and what we were told was exceptional "eye candy" and then drove to Provence. Jamie and Ben passed through Paris on their way to Vaison la Romaine; Ben described the charming town as "a highlight of our honeymoon that we had always wanted to revisit." They stayed for a couple of days in Vaison la Romaine before continuing on to Ménerbes. Charlie and Roxy went to the French Open (Round 4 and Quarterfinals) sans Roland Garros panama hats and then wandered down through the south of France. Finally, Shelley, the only one to travel directly from the United States, spent almost 24 hours getting from San Francisco to La Bastide de Ménerbes.
Most all of our housemates had arrived in Europe before arriving in Ménerbes. Ian, Judy, Shelia, and Tina first spent 6 days ("Three Perfect Days" times 2) together in Barcelona enjoying tapas (Cal'Fusta, Mirilla, and El Callejon) and what we were told was exceptional "eye candy" and then drove to Provence. Jamie and Ben passed through Paris on their way to Vaison la Romaine; Ben described the charming town as "a highlight of our honeymoon that we had always wanted to revisit." They stayed for a couple of days in Vaison la Romaine before continuing on to Ménerbes. Charlie and Roxy went to the French Open (Round 4 and Quarterfinals) sans Roland Garros panama hats and then wandered down through the south of France. Finally, Shelley, the only one to travel directly from the United States, spent almost 24 hours getting from San Francisco to La Bastide de Ménerbes.
The first morning we all seemed to begin an adjustment to not rushing things. First coffee, then more coffee, then a question ... what shall we do today? "Tout prend du temps, ne vous précipitez pas de choses." The effect of being here, in this separate and peaceful place, was immediate and obvious. No more rushing to meet with a tour guide, no more "must see" tourist attractions, no more scrambling to get tickets to an calendar accommodating event, no more restaurant reservations, no more, no more. "Let's go to a village market, it is Sunday, how about the one in L'Isle sur la Sorgue?"
Going in several different cars we found parking at bit of a challenge...we were scattered around the little town. The town, though, does an excellent job of setting up free auxiliary parking areas for the hundreds, if not, thousands of visitors. Yet, the sun shone, the river glittered, the streets were thronging with color and life, the crowds were cheerful and relaxed; no one hurried, no one pushed, the air was fresh and warm. Gus began to think if he had one Sunday left to live he would spend it in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
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| Pellucid river Sorgue |
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| There are seven or eight of these waterwheels scattered around town serving as reminders that L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue was a very active industrial center in the past. These large waterwheels, and dozens of others, were used for things such as dyeing fabrics and powering olive and paper mills. |
"The only thing you can't get in L'Isle sur la Sorgue is a bargain." Peter Mayle
Joan and Gus proved him wrong.
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| Boucherouite that Joan & Gus bought at Galerie Demesure and shipped home. This art gallery and interior design shop is on Avenue de la Libération. |
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Vintage advertising signs abound.
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The wonderful canals and river basins make L'Isle sur la Sorgue one of the most picturesque spots that we have ever visited in all of our travels.
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| River basin where the waterways enter the center of the village. Looking across the basin is Le Bellevue on Quai Jean Jaurès. |
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| River dam and falls leaving the basin at Avenue Général de Gaulle and Porte des Bouigas. |
And of course, the amazing market.
(Credit for most of the market photos: Desire Empire)
Our group gathered at Le Moulin de L'Isle for a nice lunch (thanks Tina and Shelley). The most memorable, for Gus, was his ordering and eating andouillette and sauerkraut. Some comments:
- "True andouillette is rarely seen outside France and has a strong, distinctive odor related to its intestinal origins and components. Although sometimes repellant to the uninitiated, this aspect of andouillette is prized by its devotees." Wikipedia
- "... it absolutely stinks and we're not talking good stink." good food
- "Love it or hate it, there are no half measures and its staunchest supporters would sell their souls for a “Five A”. Those who turn their noses up at the mention of the andouillette have no idea what a treat they’re missing!" travel Michelin
- "But I am never f*ck$#g eating that disgusting s*#t again." luis in paris
Well, as Gus always like to say ... "De gustibus non est disputandum"
We soon returned to La Bastide. Ben and Jamie made a wonderful dinner of vegetable frittatas and salad accompanied by several quaffable Provence rosés provided and opened by Charlie.
The next morning was different, but only slightly. We all headed off to the superb little village of Ménerbes. Most on foot, some on bicycle, and a couple by car. The goal was to find a pâtisserie and experience the quintessential French ritual of le petit dejeuner or morning meal. Unfortunately, we had to settle for a boulangerie which had a limited selection of pastries; however, the boulanger still served some pasties and delicious coffee drinks.
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| Shelley, Judy, Tina, Jamie, Ben, Shelia, Charlie, Roxy, Ian |
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| Charlie, Roxy, and Ian |
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| Judy and Jamie |
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| Weather forecast for Ménerbes |
Then the question ... what shall we do today? "Today is Monday, let's go to the market in Cavaillon." Cavaillon market may be the least charming market of the Luberon, somewhere that locals shop for clothing, fabrics, leather goods, footwear, bed linens, bags, soaps and other household products ... Joan even bought 2 pairs of cargo shorts.
Joan's purchase of the shorts is worth a brief story. Walking by a set of clothes racks she spied two pairs of cargo shorts. One raspberry and another turquoise. She asked the young man who was minding the stall if she could try them on; she was told yes and was led maybe five blocks away from the stall and shown a large, white delivery truck. The young man opened the latched door and told Joan that she could try the items on in there. Joan, with her bum hip, climbed into the truck. No windows, very little light, and no mirrors. Joan tried on each pair of shorts, each time exiting the truck, walking across the street, and checking the reflection of the garments in a store window. Each pair fit reasonably well and looked good on her. Returning to the stall she purchased the items for € 20. Now that is what's called 'SEAL Team 6' shopping.
Oh yes, as for food shopping, we found spices, quality meat, fresh shellfish, and organic produce for our next few dinners.
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| Culinary lavender |
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| Charcuterie |
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| Pâté en Croûte from Girard Blanc Michel Boucherie-Charcuterie |
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| The Charentais melon of Cavaillon is a fragrant star of the European cantaloupe family and at its best is far more succulent than the North American cantaloupe. |
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| Provençal breakfast radishes |
We shopped with Ian and Judy who were responsible for making dinner tonight.
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| Charlie, Judy, Ian, and Shelia's left shoulder Assorted grilled meats, roasted potatoes, and Romesco sauce. Dinner is served! |
We enjoyed another wonderful dinner washed down by some of the region's modestly priced food friendly wine.
Not to be mistaken for a version of Groundhog Day, but ... what shall we do today? "Today is Tuesday, let's go to the market in Gordes." Gordes, a quintessential Provençal hilltop village, is really all about the view of the town from the approaching road and not much else, but what a view.
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| Approaching picturesque Gordes from the south (photo credit: Under our own olive tree) |
It was another beautiful day and the market was not as crowded as the two previous markets that we had visited. The Gordes market features clothing, hats (Gus bought a Panama hat to replace the one he left on the first leg of his last airplane flight), jewelry (Joan purchased a simple bracelet), soap (we added to our collection), linens and other souvenirs. There were only a few offerings of local specialties and an even smaller selection of fruits, vegetables, or proteins. However, the few ...
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| Artisan pâte de fruit and nougats |
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| Hand crafted traditional nougats and assorted fruit pastes. |
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| Mixture of dried forest mushrooms. |
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| Anise seed (back left), rosebuds, and cardamom (back right) |
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| Bergarouge apricots. Juicy, very sweet and very low acidity. It is available from early June through late July. |
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| Apple cider vinegar is the most common fruit vinegar, but consider the endless possibilities with pear, plum, raspberry, blackberry, persimmon–or even tomato vinegar. From left raspberry, green apple, and tomato. |
Just outside Gordes is the lovely medieval Sénanque Abbey with its famed lavender field. We were a bit early in the season (in Provence the lavender is in full bloom from late June to August), but the complex is stunning.
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| Sénanque Abbey |
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| Swimming pool (photo courtesy of VRBO) |
And Charlie was mixing evening cocktails; it was apéro hour.
Ménerbes Cocktail
(developed by "Charlie the Mixologist")
1 ½ oz. Aperol
½ oz. syrup from Kirsch brandied Morello cherries
3 oz. champagne, chilled
2 brandied cherries
Combine Aperol and syrup in champagne flute. Stir.
Drop cherries into the flute. Top off with champagne.
Serve. Drink.
Shelia helped Roxy with the finishing touches for the paella. Dinner was served. The paella was definitely a "crowd pleaser."
Reminded of yet another movie, If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium, we set off to the market knowing that if today is Wednesday it must be Saint Rémy de Provence. Saint Remy's lovely location is also part of the draw of this market. From the east, one drives along the French country road D99 where rolling green fields dotted with vineyards extend to Les Alpilles, the small range of limestone cliffs made famous by Vincent van Gogh.
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| Vincent van Gogh, Les Alpilles
Kröller-Müller Museum
(photo credit: Paint Watercolor Create)
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The entrance to the city is lined with gigantic plane trees on either side and is breathtaking.
Driving into Saint Remy de Provence, it is impossible not to notice
the avenues of plane trees that are gnarled and knobbed like the
arthritic hands of an old man.
After entering the town we were unable to avoid the notorious parking problems of market day. It may took us more time that we planned to find parking; yet the remote parking lot we landed in was next to a small creek which presented an incredible photo opportunity ... which Joan skillfully captured.
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| Dragonflies in flight |
In the hour we had until lunch we walked around and with a little bit of luck stumbled across ...
Talented group performs every market day
The group gathered at the restaurant. Lunch was pleasant. Relaxed atmosphere, attentive service, and the food was very good and attractively plated. Gus, for one, had a perfectly cooked duck breast. One of our party, on a trip to the restroom, discovered an eclectic collection of memorabilia.
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| Dining room adorned with vintage fairground cars, old kids bikes mounted to the walls and myriad other collectibles.
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| A French kiss |
Tonight Gus and Joan were responsible for dinner. The menu:
French 75
Roasted Pork Tenderloin with
Juniper Infused Red Cabbage
Provence Rosés
Tart Tatin
(recipes, for those interested, are available under the Recipes gadget to the upper right of this post)
Too busy to take any photos except for ....
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| Joan's Tart Tatin |
Today is Gus and Joan's last full day in Provence. We decided to stay nearby. A walk up to the village for lunch with Shelley and Judy for lunch ...
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| Résidences secondaires of Ménerbes |
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| Deserted street suggests Ménerbes to be a Provençal ghost town |
The village’s brilliantly repaved and immaculate streets came by way of the
generosity of philanthropist Ms. Nancy Negley.
generosity of philanthropist Ms. Nancy Negley.
Ms. Negley purchased, in 1997, The Dora Maar House. In a five-year effort, she rehabilitated and updated this spacious, four-story stone residence in the village of Ménerbes. Her goal was to make it a retreat for scholars, artists, and writers, where they could work undisturbed on their research, art, or writing, for one to three months.
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| The Dora Maar House The 18th-century town house was purchased in 1944 by Pablo Picasso for Dora Maar, the artist and Surrealist photographer who was Picasso’s companion and muse in the late 1930s and early 1940s. (photo credit: The Alliance of Artists Communities) |
As Gus has read, Ménerbes has become hollowed out year by year by more and more absentee owners aka résidences secondaires, having reached a tipping point where the year-round village population is inadequate to sustain shops and cafés. The only doctor in the village closed his office in 2012; only one pharmacy remains in business; the butcher took retirement without replacement; the post office has been downgraded to an agency; the épicerie is expected to close once sold, a pizzeria has a for-sale sign up, and the future of the boulangérie is uncertain. While gentrification of Ménerbes can be attributed to a number of reasons it is, without a doubt, the uncanny attraction of "living" in Provence created by Peter Mayle's 5 books: A Year in Provence, Toujours Provence, A Good Year, Provence A-Z, and Encore Provence: New Adventures in the South of France that has had a great deal to do with the sad outcome.
We did find a restaurant open and had lunch at Le Galoubet. We sat on the terrace across the street from the restaurant and we were pleasantly surprised by a gentle breeze that accommodated the space. The place was busy and full of mostly English speaking customers. This small restaurant serves simple, traditional food that left each of us satisfied but certainly well short of wowed.
Walking back to La Bastide we passed by ...
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| Panoramic view, to the west, of vineyards in the valley |
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| Lavender field just beginning to bloom. |
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| The ancient cemetery of Ménerbes |
Arriving back at La Bastide the balance of the group had organized themselves and were heading off to The Château la Canorgue. On the way we passed by ...
The Château la Canorgue, about a mile from Bonnieux, was used as the film location of the chateau and vineyard that Russell Crowe inherits in the film "A Good Year."
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| Original winery building now the tasting room and administrative offices |
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| View of only a small part of the Château's grounds and vineyards with the nearby village of Bonnieux in the distance |
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| One of the Château's vineyards One hundred acres are planted with Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Merlot, and Cabernet |
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| Clockwise, staring with Judy, then Gus, Ian, Tina, Jamie, Shelia, Charlie, Roxy, Shelley, and Ben. |
We took the night off and had leftovers. Actually, the meal was quite tasty. The night, like most every other night, was filled with great conversation, amazing stories, and gratfying laughter. It was clear, at least to Gus, that the assembled group of people got along well and even enjoyed one another, had similar interests, had at least some things in common, and all were worth knowing. Thanks, Ian and Judy for being our good friends and sharing with us your wonderful friends.
C'est logique!
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